Whidbey Island and Skagit River Delta Field Trip - Journal Entry 8

It's a clear cold morning on Saturday November 21st, 2015.  We begin our daylong field trip to Whidbey Island and the Skagit Delta by loading into the van convoy and driving north to the Mukilteo/Clinton Ferry terminal.  The weather forecast calls for good but cold conditions in the north end so I am excited that we will be able to enjoy the scenic and natural beauty without the nuisance  of clouds and rain.  

The class boards the ferry and heads up to the front passenger deck for our first lesson of the day.  Inside the main passenger cabin its warm and cozy,  while outside, on the forward deck, the winds are blowing and the air feels frigid.  Tim begins the  lesson by talking about a couple of gulls that are following the ferry.  He points out that the gull, which I  now know to possibly be a Glaucous Gull (Larus hyperboreus), Glaucous-winged gull (Larus glaucenscens) or Western gull (Larus occidentalis) hybrid, was using the upward moving air currents created by the bow  of  the ship  to stay aloft in the air while simultaneously keeping up with the ferry.  This bird has come to recognize the ferry as a possible source of food (from passengers) which explains why he is following us out onto the  waters of Possession Sound.  After what seemed like only a few minutes we approached our destination but not before taking a good look at the Pelagic Cormorants (Phalacrocorax pelagicus) that were sunning themselves on the tops of the piers of the ferry terminal.  

After we disembarked the ferry the van convoy continued its road trip to Ebey's Landing located on the island's western most point.  As we passed through the farmlands of Ebey's  Prairie and approached the coast we drove through a coastal woodland just before our destination.  The class got  out of the vans so that Tim could show us some amazing plant adaptations.  In the background of the picture below is a stand of trees that were different than examples the class had previously seen.  This stand of trees is located atop a very tall and steep bluff that towers over a rocky beach.  Tim asks the  class to try to identify the tree species around us.  Most of the class was perplexed because these trees did not quite fit the characteristics we had learned.  We could identify that there were two different tree species in the area but what they were exactly was a mystery until we found out what happened to them.  We were shocked to hear that this stand of Sitka Spruce and Douglas Fir trees that have adapted to the full exposure of sun and wind it receives in it's location.  Both species of trees had needles that were thicker and bigger than usual.  Thicker and bigger needles allows the trees to have more surface area to both photosynthesis and take in water.    In addition the trees seemed to be  gnarled and bent as if they had been twisted by some unseen force.  The truth is that an invisible force did gnarl the trees in the form of high winds that come through the Straights of Juan de Fuca.   Although the stand is located in the Olympic rain shadow, this stand of trees receives lots of moisture in the form of fog that is generated from cold water currents moving along the coast just below the bluff.  After we finished observing the species adaptations we returned to the convoy and made our way to the parking lot of Ebey's Landing.           

 

The class made it way  out on the beach where we were about to receive a geology lesson.  Tim explained that the beach where we were standing is below an ancient shoreline.  Looking at the shorter bluffs, some 150 to 200 feet up, where Ebey's Prairie  meets Ebey's Landing is the where the beach was about 13,000 years ago.  During that time this area was covered by the Puget lobe of the Cordilleran ice sheet.  As the glaciers ground across the region they deposited a sediment  layer known in this area as  Vashon till while simultaneously sculpting the landscape which created the long drumlin hills  our region is known for.  In addition the glaciers left behind other  features such as moraines and kettle lakes.      Ebey's Prairie  is special because it is  the site where out wash sediments from the teriminus of the glacier were deposited thus creating the flat expanse of the prairie that led up the the ancient beach.  The reason why the current shoreline is now a few hundred feet below the ancient one is because of glacial rebound.  The extreme weight of the glaciers compressed the earth's  surface causing a depression.  After the weight was removed when the ice melted the land slowly rebounded (uplifted).  This rebound  stopped some seven thousand years ago which left the ancient shoreline high and dry where it is today.  The three pictures above show the new beach below the ancient beach as well as the exposed sandy layers of ancient beach top-set deposits.   The next set of photos is of the flora and fauna we found on our long walk along the beach towards Perego's Lagoon. 

Brittle Prickly-Pear Cactus (Opuntia fragilis) Washington's native  cactus plant found growing on the side of the bluffs in the sandy soil. 

Harry is holding his favorite snack he found  on the beach.  Lamb's-Quarters (Chenopodium album).  This plant tasted like arugula. 

Shelby holds a Chiton (Phylum: Mollusca, Order:Polyplacophora, Class:Neoloricata) she found on the beach.  We will not go into what it looks like but it was very interesting none-the-less. 

Unknown beach succulent

Possibly Big Deervetch (Lotus crassifolius)

American Glasswort (Salicornia virginica)

Possibly Yellow Sand-Verbena (Abronia latifolia)

The next three photos below are of Perego's Lagoon.  This feature was formed by long-shore transport as sediments from the bluffs make their way down into the sound.  Long-shore transport sends the sediment particles northward which are then deposited along the shoreline.  This deposition has created a spit that protects the shallow lagoon behind it from wave action on the shoreline.  The waters of the lagoon were largely motionless but bore the ripple  marks of the gentle breeze we felt that day.  Along with the quiescent ripples, the only other movement  in the lagoon was from several birds floating on it's  surface.  The birds  I could identify were the Surf Scoter (Melanitta perspicillata) and Bufflehead (Bucephala albeola).  Thank you to Jorge for helping me figure out what they  were!  In addition to seeing a few other birds I was not able to identify on the lagoon, soaring up above it was a group of six or seven Bald Eagles (Haliaeetus leucocephalus) circling a potential prey target.  I was not able to get  photos of the ducks  or eagles as they were too far away from my vantage point to get a decent picture. 

Marsh grasses of Perego's Lagoon.

The class ascends the Bluff Trail to get a better look.  From this bluff-side vantage point I am able to see a couple of Red-breasted Mergansers (Mergus serrator) floating just a few hundred feet off shore.  Thank you again to Jorge for helping me ID.   

As I make my way up the Bluff Trail to the very top  I take  a moment to look out and behold the gorgeous view.  You could not have asked for a better day for such an amazing experience.  Walking along the Bluff Trial  you must  be careful  not to fall for its a long way down to the bottom.  This precarious journey on the edge of the bluff followed another stand of adapted Sikta Spruce and Douglas Fir trees.  These trees remind me of photographs of windswept  trees taken by the great 20th century photographer  Ansel  Adams.    

This reminds me of a giant bonsai tree. 

Creepy windswept snag high on the bluff. 

Twisting and Turning and every direction in between.

Silent sentinel stands shading its face with one hand and with the other  points down to the beach. 

Last half  of the class prepares to descend the Bluff trail back to Ebey's Landing parking lot.  We took a class photo with Tim, Jorge and the TA's. 

Beautiful view of the farms of Ebey's Prairie.

Mount Baker proudly representing the North Cascades. 

As we wrapped up  our visit to  Ebey's Landing I thought it would be nice to get  a shot of Puget Sound and the Olympic Mountain range.  We live in an amazing place.  The class returned to the convoy and continued our journey to the Skagit River Delta. 

Alder Ghost Forest of Skagit Wildlife Area

 

I am sure the original plan was to spend a little more time on the Skagit Delta  but because we ended up taking more time at Ebey's Landing we did not get as much time in the delta as Tim and the TA's would have like.  Our first stop in the delta, which is not pictured, was along a farm road in order to observe a flock of Tundra Swans (Cygnus columbianus) that had settled on the freshly plowed farm field.  After spending a few minutes discussing the swans Tim and  Jorge noticed that large flocks of thousands, perhaps tens of thousands of birds were on the move high in the sky.  We decided to see if we could find out where they were going and ended up at the Skagit Wildlife Area.  The wildlife area is a part of the delta that has been restored  to allow it to function as it did before human intervention and and provide more habitat for wild birds.  The four photos above are of a ghost forest created when levees were removed and the brackish waters of the sound allowed to flood back into the delta.  Salt water intrusion killed this alder forest creating the stunning sunset images you see before you.  As you can see by the last set of photos that we are loosing light fast and our field trip has come to and end.... or is it?  At the very last moment, as we were about to load up the convoy a Great Horned Owl (Bubo virginianus) was spotted.  In true Tim and Jorge fashion we used prerecorded bird calls, specifically Great Horned owl call to see if could get this large bird to come closer.  After calling it the owl  indeed came closer  for a look.  We spent almost and hour calling and watching this silent creature fly from tree  to tree.  At this point is dark and its getting to be dinner time so we pack up the class and head back to the city.  But before we got back to Wallace Hall parking lot Tim imparts some more of his owl wisdom on this passengers.  I now know that the Great Horned Owl's  call can be remembered by saying, "whose awake, me too, me too"  or as Sibley Field Guide to Birds says, "ho hoo hoo hoododo hooooo hoo."  Thank you Tim for the  tip, I plan to use it  for the final exam. 

Mt. Rainer, Mima Mounds & Nisqually River Delta Weekend Field Trip - Journal Entry 3

Mt. Rainier (Tahoma): Shrouded in it's own micro-climate.

·         It’s Saturday October, 17^th 2015 at about ten-thirty.  We have already started our weekend long field trip and are at our first stop of the day.  Tim begins his roadside lecture at a lookout point on the road leading up the mountain.  He explains that vegetation zones around the mountain are determined by snow pack.  I interpret this information to mean that temperature which is directly influenced by altitude and the  type (snow, rain or fog) and amount of precipitation  are the key factors in determining the distribution of plant and animal species.  At the view point he informs us that we are currently standing in the mountain hemlock zone.  I also take note  that no deciduous trees are present at this  altitude.   Up here trees have adapted to have a more spire-like shape in order to prevent snow from accumulating on their branches. Above is a shot of Mount Rainier, our next stop.  Suddenly, a feeling excited anticipation sweeps over me, for today is the day I finally get to the meet the mountain.  Today is the day I get to see Mount Rainier up close.    

 

Mt. Rainier (Tahoma): Stairs leading to trails at Paradise with John Muir quote. 

·         It’s about twelve-thirty and we are finally up at Paradise.  There is a bit of a sprinkle at this attitude as the clouds loom close to the mountain.  We begin our short hike to the lateral moraine of Nisqually glacier, the target of our journey.  However, before we begin we are greeted by a powerful John Muir quote engraved into the granite stairs by the parks service. “…the most luxuriant and the most extravagantly beautiful of all the alpine gardens I ever beheld in all of my mountain-top wanderings. -John Muir 1889"  I cannot wait to behold the glory of this mountain for  I am sure I will  not be disappointed.    

Mt. Rainier (Tahoma): Top of the mountain is visible for only a moment.

We are standing on a lateral moraine looking up at Nisqually glacier at about 5,500 ft above sea-level.  Up there at about 6000 - 7000 above seal-level  is the alpine zone where trees are not able to grow.  At first glance  the glacier  seems to stop in the middle of the photo.  What I had not realize initially was that the glacier actually extends further down that it appears.  The bottom part of the glacier is covered by debris and looks like a rubble pile. Successive glaciations over tens of thousands of years have carved out the glacial valley that is the source of the Nisqually river. 

Mt. Rainier (Tahoma): Terminus of Nisqually glacier.

If you look more closely you can observe the water channels coming out of the rubble pile revealing white snow underneath.  This is the melting snout of the glacier scouring through the debris piled on top of it.  According to Tim and Shane there has been significant collapse  of the ice cave seen in the middle  of the photo since last year.  A clear indication of  glacial retreat.    

Mt. Rainier (Tahoma): View of trail we took get to Nisqually glacier lateral moraine.

At this altitude abiotic factors such as climate, slope and  soil type primarily dictate what species of plants and animals can survive here.  Organism must be well suited to the ever-changing and harsh conditions of the mountain side.  The mountain side in this view is dominated  by sub  alpine fir and some mountain hemlock.

Mt. Rainier (Tahoma): Common Beard Moss (Schistidium apocarpum) growing on the side of a rock.

In this photo a clump of common beard moss clings to the top of a large cobble that is sticking out  of the moraine.

Mount Rainier (Tahoma): Sketch looking down from lateral moraine.

Mt. Rainier (Tahoma): Nurse log over 100 feet long in old growth forest.

After visiting the Nisqually glacier we descended from Paradise and took a moment to explore a small  section of old  growth forest.  Down here in the western hemlock zone the area is  dominated by huge western hemlock but also many giant Douglas fir and very large western red cedars abound.  In this photo  the class examines a nurse log that is over 100 feet tall.  Nurse logs provide new habitat for plants and animals on the forest floor as well as make  room for  trees in the under story to grow.  The four characteristics of an old growth forest are B.U.N.S. which means big trees, under story, nurse logs and snags.  This stop on the trip was the best example of B.U.N.S.  we  saw  the entire weekend.  

Mima Mounds: Class takes in view from observation deck.

On the second day of our trip we visited the mysterious Mima  Mounds.  Many theories have been postulated on the mounds  formation but no one is certain which one or ones are responsible.  Such theories include; earthquakes, floods, erosion and  melting glacial  ice.   

Mima Mounds: Tim stands in front of mound  cross-section for scale.

Evidence has shown that the mounds are composed of layers that include glacial out-wash sediments underneath the mounds.  I personally think the mounds are man made and could have  been manufactured  to create a more  productive hunting ground.  However, like all of the other  theories I just do not have enough evidence to support  it. The Mima Mounds area is a prairie that was maintained by Native American tribes through frequent burning.  The practice of burning helped maintain prairie lands by releasing nutrients back into the soil, eliminating/reducing invasive or aggressive species as wells as  preventing large trees from growing. Soils  in this area are sandy and contain  small rocky particles that drain very well. 

Mima Mounds: Close-up of Kinnikinnick (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi) and it's berries  growing on the side of a mound.

After spending some time by myself  on a secluded mound I notice a bright red set of berries on the next to me.  This berry bearing shrub is called  Kinnikinnick which local tribes use as medicine for kidney diseases and infections of the urinary passage.

Mima Mounds: Sketch of Oxeye Daisy.

Mima Mouds: Unknown Mushroom.

Nisqually Delta: Wooded  wetlands.

The last stop on our weekend long field  trip was the Nisqually Delta.  This beautiful low land area is where the Nisqually river meets the Puget Sound.  Down here were are  still  in the western hemlock vegetative zone but we know have lots of other tree  species including deciduous  trees.  Here biotic forces are overwhelming as all manner  of organism compete for the bountiful  resources  of the delta. The  area is  host to a rich variety of plants  and  animals but  most  notably the area attracts an enormous amount  of birds.  

Nisqually Delta: Dead trees killed by salt water intrusion.

The delta is full of  fine sediments brought down to it  from Mount Rainier via the Nisqually River.  These fine sediments for  mud and clays  that do not drain very well.   In the shot above the tide has  receded and  exposed the mucky surface of the delta.  This area was walled off  by large dike system, drained and converted into fertile farm land.  However, recently the delta was restored to its former glory when the dikes were removed and nature resumed its course.  

Throughout this entire weekend  long journey I have been awestruck  and amazed at every turn.  I  think it was perfect how each  stop  along the way highlighted how geology and climate dictate the distribution of plant  and animal species.  This trip has opened my eyes to the language of nature and I look forward to becoming fluent in it.